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Writer's pictureRebekah Cardenas

All About Yarn!

Yarn is defined as a collection of fibers, interlocked in the same direction, to form a continuous strand. There are so many types of yarn, presenting endless creative possibilities - how do we know where do we start? This is a guide designed to help you get started with the basics of yarn classifications and fiber content. May it help you select the best type of yarn for your project!


Yarn Classifications


Yarns are classified by structure, how they are manufactured, and the number of strands or twists they possess.


Spun Yarn: made from fibers only a couple inches long that are then twisted or wound together to make a single ply. Fibers face the same direction before they are wound together.


Single-Ply Yarn: consists of a single strand that holds fiber together with a minimal twist, typically one strand or thread, but this does not indicate thickness or gauge.


Multi-Ply or Folded Yarn: made by twisting two or more single-ply yarns together in opposite directions of the original spin direction to create a single, stronger yarn. Generally speaking, the more ply, the more elastic the yarn.


Cord Yarn: made by twisting ply yarns together to make a cord. Used to make strong ropes or cables.


Filament Yarn: stronger than spun yarns and made from one or more strands of filament that continuously runs the entire length of yarn. Most are synthetically made through mechanical or chemical processes. The only natural filament yarn is silk.



Yarn Weight


Yarn weight refers to the thickness, or gauge, of the yarn. Each weight category, numbered from 0 being the thinnest, increasing in thickness up to 8 or more, signifies a range of similar gauges.


  • 0 - Lace

  • 1 - Super fine - also called fingering, fine, sock, or baby

  • 2 - Fine - also called fine, sport, light DK, or baby

  • 3 - Light - also called DK or light

  • 4 - Medium - also called worsted or afghan

  • 5 - Bulky - also called chunky or craft

  • 6 - Super Bulky - also called roving

  • 7 - Jumbo - also called ultra or roving


The Craft Yarn Council has published a Standard Yarn Weight System for reference.



Yarn Labels


Yarn labels generally feature all information you need to know about the product, helping you select the best material, and corresponding tools, for your project.


  1. Yarn weight category refers to the thickness of the material, or gauge.

  2. Net weight refers to the weight of the entire roll, usually in ounces or grams.

  3. Length of entire yarn strand, usually in yards or meters.

  4. Knitting needle and crochet hook size recommendations.

  5. Fiber content with percentages if blended.

  6. Laundering and aftercare recommendations.

  7. Manufacturing location.


Recommendations for needle and hook size are given to help you match the gauge you need for a knitting or crochet project. For the yarn label shown, a 9-mm crochet hook is expected to achieve 8 rows of 6.6 single crochet stitches within a 4 x 4 inch square (or 10 x 10 cm), and 9-mm knitting needles will achieve 12 rows of 9 stitches within the same dimensions.


These recommendations are given as a guide and it's not expected that you follow them specifically. In my experience, yarn weight and hook/needle size recommendations on a pattern are more relevant than those on a label if you're going for a specific outcome.



Selecting the best yarn for your project


Before you get too invested in a project, do some research to ensure the best results. If you are a beginner, you will most likely start with a crochet project idea, then search for a pattern to match. While it is common to find yarn recommendations on a pattern, this will usually only guide you to the right yarn weight and not much else. Crochet patterns mostly tell you what the creator used to give you an indication of expected size. But what if you want something bigger, or smaller, or with a different yarn fiber altogether? This is where initial research can help you save time, money, and maybe a few tears.


Here are some factors to consider when selecting tools and materials for a project:

  1. Budget - Yarn can get pricey, especially that luxurious cashmere.

  2. Fiber – Yarn is made from a variety of fibers, and fiber blends.

  3. Weight – Knowing how weight affects your work will help you select the best yarn.

  4. Ethical Sourcing – Whether synthetic or natural, fiber sourcing is important.

  5. Color – Manufacturers release product lines of yarn in a limited array of colors. Plan ahead!

  6. Aftercare – Do you want to hand-wash that sweater every time you wear it? Will you die inside if it gets dirty?



Budget


A key thing to consider before beginning a project is your budget. It may not seem that important if you’re making something small, but yarn can get pricey, especially those luxurious feeling cashmeres and alpaca. Don’t feel pressured to buy expensive yarn just because the pattern creator used something fancy. It’s okay to shop around, look for deals, or wait for sales.


Make sure you’re buying the right amount. Look for material amounts on the pattern – usually pattern authors will tell you how much you need. Or do some research online – Facebook crafting groups and public forums like Reddit are great places to ask questions of other crafters who love to talk about their work!


If you’re making something big like a blanket where you need a lot of one color, make sure you shop for yarn that is readily available so you can finish your project. Manufacturers discontinue yarn product lines all the time. So, don’t bet entirely on “picking some up later” if you don’t buy enough at the beginning – that yarn could be gone! If this happens to you, search for comparable material weight and fiber from a new manufacturer – there are many out there!


If you happen to buy too much, consider ways you can use the scrap. Make something small, donate what you have left… or make something small to donate! Just don’t throw it away. Additionally, yarn scraps can be used for stuffing!



Fiber


Yarn fibers can be derived from animals, plant-based, and synthetically manufactured, and you can find yarn in any variation and mixture of these fibers.


Animal-Derived Yarn provides benefits of warmth, softness, and durability. The most common animal-derived yarns are made from wool, alpaca, or silk fibers, and can be blended for a variety of textures and color. Luxurious and soft high-breed sheep wool, such as mohair, is typically the most expensive yarn by weight. Wool is naturally moisture wicking and warm, but also temperature regulating, making it perfect for cold weather garments.


Plant-Based Yarn is derived from cotton, linen, hemp, bamboo, jute, and other plants. These fibers are breathable and lightweight but also strong and durable. Natural plant-based yarns are biodegradable and eco-friendly. Many plant-based yarns such as cotton are naturally absorbent, and some have anti-bacterial properties, like bamboo. Plant-based yarns make soft, machine-washable garments and long-lasting home-use accessories. Plant-based yarns can be found in a wide array of colors, and "raw" yarn is easy to dye yourself.


Synthetic Yarn can be made from acrylic, nylon, or polyester fibers, which can be blended nicely with other natural fibers for a variety of textures and property benefits. Synthetic yarns are suitable for people with sensitive skin or allergies and are available in an astonishing spectrum of colors. Acrylic yarn is available in a range of textures from course and starchy to plyable and soft. Nylon is strong, but lightweight. Polyester and acrylic can be soft and stretchy, but are not as breathable as natural fibers.


Blended Yarns have many benefits including improved performance, durability, and cost. Blending natural fibers like cotton with synthetics like polyester can produce a fabric that is resistant to wrinkles. Blending acrylic with wool can reduce cost while achieving greater color options and maintaining thermal properties. Perhaps my favorite fiber blend is cotton and acrylic for use in crochet amigurumi projects. The strands are uniform, texture is consistent, and the color possibilities are endless!



Special considerations for animal-derived yarn


If you've seen the price tags on some wool yarn you may be wondering why it is so high, especially compared to synthetics. Since this isn't meant to be a post about how to make wool yarn, I will keep this brief.


Wool yarn is made from a sheep's fleece (fur). The sheep's fleece is sheared away from its body, along with a thin layer of skin, lanolin, vegetation, food scraps, saliva, feces, and remnants of whatever that sheep go into that season. Lanolin is an oil secretion from the sheep's skin that helps to protect the sheep from extreme climates, making its fleece waterproof, while moisturizing and nourishing its skin. It feels somewhat like waxy butter to the touch. The fleece is cleaned, or scoured, to remove impurities, and lanolin is usually removed during this process. However, certain precautions can be taken to keep the lanolin in the wool, if desired. After cleaning, the wool fibers are straightened and separated using brushes, or carders, with fine metal teeth. The wool is then combed to remove short fibers and any leftover impurities from the cleaning process. If vegetable matter remains after these steps, sulfuric acid can be used to remove it (carbonizing). The wool is further refined by drawing - a process where a spinning wheel is used to twist fibers together to create a long strand, or ply, of yarn. Due to inconsistencies in the fiber lengths and texture, pin drafting may be employed to thin the fibers to achieve a more uniform strand. When multiple plies are required for the yarn, plying is done to combine 2 or more strands of the spun yarn.


Out of general curiosity, I took a class on yarn spinning. The fleece was presented to me full of impurities which I had to scour before carding and combing. After completing the yarn-making process up to the plying stage, I have a renewed appreciation for this skill, and a better understanding of why it is so costly. I do not work extensively with animal-derived fibers, but I have used wool in several projects and one lesson that I have learned the hard way is that you get what you pay for. If you plan on using wool in your projects, save yourself some time and headaches - shop around for the best quality and feel, especially if you plan for your work to last a long time.



Weight


Yarn weight determines so much about the outcome of your project. For wearables, heavier yarns are great for cold-weather garments and lighter yarns make breathable, lightweight garments. Yarn weight also determines the finished size of your project. If you're unsure about which weight to select, it's best to follow pattern recommendations until you become more familiar with yarn weight and feel.



Ethical Sourcing


Crafters have copious options when selecting yarn for projects and there are so many factors to consider with performance alone! So, why should you consider where your yarn comes from? Ethical yarn sourcing considers the environment, animal welfare, and the workers involved in making the yarn. When choosing yarn, check for certifications on the manufacturer label or on their website. Here are a few to look out for:


OEKO-TEX Standard 100 Certification: this certification means the textile has been tested for harmful substances and is harmless for human health.


Yarn Ethically & Sustainably Sourced (YESS): this initiative is spearheaded by the Responsible Sourcing Network to create an industry-wide due diligence system for spinning and fabric mills to identify and address cotton produced with forced labor in their supply chains.


Organic & Recycled Cotton Certifications:

  • Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) - a set of requirements that ensures textiles are organic & have been produced responsibly - environmentally & socially.

  • Global Recycled Standard (GRS) - a voluntary, international certification that verifies the use of recycled materials in a product.


Responsible Wool Standard (RWS): a voluntary standard certifying wool from farms that meet ethical guidelines. Wool is derived from sheep that are treated responsibly and comply with the Five Freedoms for animal welfare: freedom from hunger, thirst, pain, disease, and fear. Wool comes from farms that manage land in a sustainable way and prioritize the health and safety of their workers. The RWS is administered by Textile Exchange, a global non-profit organization that promotes sustainable development in the textile sector. To receive RWS certification, a manufacturer must adhere to RWS standards in every step of their process and obtain 100% RWS certified wool.


Yarn companies possessing at least one of these certifications:



Color


Selecting a yarn color is more than just liking a color at the store and buying it. You should first consider your project, what colors you need to complete it, and the color availability. If you want to make a blanket, all one color, then sure… pick your color and go to work. But if you want to make a stuffed toy with a specific color scheme, shop around. You may find one type of yarn that you love, and then find out that the manufacturer only makes it in 4 colors (this happens more often than I would like).

This is where I recommend doing some online research and I can’t say enough good things about Premier Yarns. I love their products! The website is super easy to navigate - you can search for yarn by weight, fiber, and so much more. They have a huge selection of yarn available in dozens of different colors. Premier also offers a rewards program which is free to sign up.


Another thing to keep in mind about color is that not all rolls of yarn will match in color, even if they come from the same manufacturer. A lot of yarn, especially from big brands, is mass-produced in batches. One batch may differ from another, producing a slightly different color in some. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been in the middle of a project (all one color) and get to a point where I need to connect a new roll, to find that none of the new rolls are the same shade as the old - it’s noticeably different when working with it.


Also consider aftercare with color, some yarns come pre-washed and the color holds up with many washes. Sometimes, the color runs. Do a little research if this is a concern and find out about the manufacturer-recommended aftercare and treatment of material.


Aftercare


As you probably guessed, aftercare depends on fiber. Some materials are hand wash only, some are dry clean, and some are okay to go into the machines. Pro tip: if you’re going to make a wearable item, be sure to choose a yarn with easy care. Or, be prepared to care for your high-maintenance garment if you choose to go a different route.


Care instructions are usually printed right on the yarn label, but when in doubt, I recommend to hand wash (cold or slightly warm water) and lay flat to dry.

Animal fibers tend to be durable and fine to wash with like materials, but I would still hang it up or lay flat to dry. Synthetic yarns can go in the washing machine, low spin and separated from other garments with buttons, zippers, or Velcro, placed inside a garment bag. They should not go into the dryer. Heat can distort or even melt the fibers. Plant fibers are okay in the machines but they may shrink. And, repeated washing weakens the fibers.


In a nutshell, all yarns at some point need some form of washing or maintenance, but whether the manufacturer recommends machine washing or not, I never machine wash my crocheted products. I always handwash and lay flat to dry.



Want more information on Yarn?


Many crochet and knit experts post informative blogs and articles on their experiences with yarn. You can also find a lot of information about specific types of yarn directly from the manufacturer, either on their websites or on the label itself.


If you have any questions for me, please send me a message or comment on this post. If you found this post helpful and want more content, subscribe and check back for more yarn inspiration! Subscribing and becoming a member is free, and I don't send out promotional or marketing emails.


Check out my other crochet posts for beginners and my YouTube channel for helpful video tutorials.


Happy crafting!

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